Here’s what you need to know about stylish brand Shushu/Tong …
Founded in 2015, Shushu/Tong’s first collection already caught keen eyes
Shushu/Tong’s collections quickly caught the eye of Dover Street Market. To date, it’s stocked in Browns, Ssense, Nordstorm, Lane Crawford, Net-a-Porter … the list goes on. Not surprising, since the likes of supermodel Ju Xiao Wen and Marvel actress Gemma Chan have strutted in the brand’s pieces. In early 2022, it even partnered with Singaporean label Charles & Keith in an exclusive capsule collection.
A portmanteau of Lei’s nickname and that of 31-year-old co-founder Yutong Jiang – or Tong Tong – who heads the legal and operations side of the business, Shushu/Tong captures the strength of pubescent heroines often featured in Japanese animation: think Cardcaptor Sakura, Madoka Magica – both stories focused on wide-eyed girls in cute outfits saving the world.
Sweet feminism with a twist
“My fashion is sweet feminism with a twist: cuteness isn’t just about tenderness or softness, it can also be very powerful,” said Lei. Though Shushu/Tong pieces have appeared on male, elderly and even muscular models, Lei said Shushu/Tong wearers remain women under 30 “who are fans of girlhood”. The apex of such a muse is Jiang.Which luxury brands will launch BTS members as their global ambassadors next?
“Tong Tong is a short girl, slim, and no boobies. She will try on all the samples and give me feedback, like whether certain shorts are too short or are actually OK. I am a man, so it’s difficult for me to understand when a girl thinks something is too sexy or not,” said Lei. The downside of drawing inspiration from such a muse is frequent criticisms of the brand’s limited body shapes – especially in an era where body positivity and inclusivity is gaining more traction.
Lei, however, doesn’t care. “This is what Tong Tong looks like. As designers, we should have a specific personality and should focus on something instead of being in everyone’s wardrobe. Sure, you’ll lose some customers, but [catering to everyone] is just not our thing.”Lei and Jiang find themselves increasingly prioritising comfort
However, as the duo foray into the 30-year-old bracket, Lei and Jiang find themselves increasingly prioritising comfort – something they shunned only eight years ago when they started their brand in their mid-20s. But in a brand where hyper-feminine reigns all, comfort is at best a hoodie first debuted in their 2021 A/W collection – which isn’t their bestseller – but never a pair of jersey pants, an item Lei was ironically wearing during our interview.
Yet the duo’s new-found desire for comfort may explain why Shushu/Tong’s latest SS2023 collection highlights a smooth, shiny satin, almost lingerie-like fabric. Their “sexiest collection yet”, as per Lei, its coquettish lace slips, and buoyant, cloudlike dresses in light blues, pinks and yellows are still not shy of extravagant brand signatures like frills, tulle trains and ruffles.“I used to try all the samples on myself as well: I still do it a little bit but I don’t fit into every piece any more,” said Lei. “I am over 30 [years old] now. My body shape is different.”
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Lei and Jiang met as students in Shanghai’s Donghua University in 2009
Both from Chengdu, Lei and Jiang met while majoring in fashion design at Shanghai’s Donghua University in 2009, when the former moonlit as a stylist’s assistant. They were later accepted to the London College of Fashion, where they shared a flat, and eventually fell under the wing of Simone Rocha and Gareth Pugh, respectively.
Despite concocting a 6,000-plus-word business plan about Shushu/Tong for the British immigration department, a denied visa application meant the duo had to move their operation back to Shanghai – a fortuitous blessing in disguise.
Upon their return, Lei reached out to his connections from his student freelance days. Photographers, editors and fellow stylists in the city knew him well, now as the once-keen assistant who had returned with an exotic aura from the English capital.
“Everyone was so welcoming: I think this was quite helpful in the first place,” said Lei. “China is efficient: I can call my factory throughout the weekend. I don’t think people in London would be very happy doing that for me. Price is also another factor: it’s too pricey in London.”
Guochao – a movement that celebrates Chinese-made fashion
Driven by Gen Zs, the recent guochao – a movement that celebrates Chinese-made brands and fashion with elements of Chinese culture – is also changing the luxury market and benefiting brands like Shushu/Tong, which, as a result, has happily evolved from “surviving from season to season” to expansion in the last few years.6 of Jackson Wang’s most impressive luxury fashion endorsements
“It’s very difficult to imagine we would spend that much money on a Chinese brand 10 years ago, because Chinese-made or designed was not a good [status] to have, but that has changed,” said Lei. “We have always been very conservative in terms of business development; every step was made slowly and carefully. It’s always about becoming a better brand, but in different stages. Now it’s about expansion without losing our identity.”
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